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The main areas of the city are:
Adalar, Avcilar, Bahcelievler, Bakirkoy, Bagcilar, Bayrampasa, Besiktas,
Beykoz, Beyoglu, Eminonu, Eyup, Fatih, Gaziosmanpasa, Gungoren,
Kadikoy, Kagithane, Kartal, Kocasinan, Kucukcekmece, Maltepe, Pendik,
Sariyer, Sultanbeyli, Sisli, Tuzla, Umraniye, Uskudar, Zeytinburnu,
Buyukcekmece, Catalca, Silivri and Sile.
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The Bosphorus
A stay in Istanbul is not complete without a traditional and unforgettable
boat trip
up the Bosphorus, the winding strait that separates Europe
and Asia. Its shores offer a delightful mixture of past and present,
grand splendour and simple beauty. Modem hotels stand next to yali
(shorefront wooden villas), marble palaces alongside rustic stone
fortresses, and elegant compounds neighbour small fishing villages.The
best way to see the Bosphorus is to board one of the passenger boats
that regularly zigzag |
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| along the shores. Embark at Eminonu,
and stop alternately on the Asian and European sides of the strait.
The round trip excursion, very reasonably priced, takes about six
hours. If you wish a private voyage, there are agencies that specialise
in organising these, day or night. |
Golden
Horn
This horn-shaped estuary divides European Istanbul. One of the best
natural harbours in the world, it was once the centre for the Byzantine
and Ottoman navies and commercial shipping interests. Today, attractive
parks and promenades line the shores, a picturesque scene especially
as the sun goes down over the water. At Fener and Balat, neighbourhoods
midway up the Golden Horn, there are entire streets filled with old
wooden houses, churches, and synagogues dating from Byzantine and
Ottoman |
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| times. The Orthodox Patriarchy resides
at Fener and a little further up the Golden Horn at Eyup, are some
wonderful examples of Ottoman architecture. Muslim pilgrims from all
over the world visit Eyup Camii and Tomb of Eyup, the Prophet Mohammed’s
standard bearer, and it is one of the holiest places in Islam. The
area is a still a popular burial place, and the hills above the mosque
are dotted with modern gravestones interspersed with ornate Ottoman
stones. The Pierre Loti Cafe, atop the hill overlooking the shrine
and the Golden Horn, is a wonderful place to enjoy the tranquility
of the view. |
Beyoglu
and Taksim
Beyoglu is an interesting example of a district with European-influenced
architecture, from a century before. Europe’s second oldest subway,
Tunel was built by the French in 1875, must be also one of the shortest
– offering a one-stop ride to start of Taksim. Near to Tunel
is the Galata district, whose Galata Tower became a famous symbols
of Istanbul, and the top of which offers a tremendous 180 degree view
of the city. |
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| From the Tunel area to Taksim square
is one of the city’s focal points for shopping, entertainment
and urban promenading: Istiklal Cadesi is a fine example of the contrasts
and compositions of Istanbul; fashion shops, bookshops, cinemas, markets,
restaurants and even hand-carts selling trinkets and simit (sesame
bread snack) ensure that the street is packed throughout the day until
late into the night. The old tramcars re-entered into service, which
shuttle up and down this fascinating street, and otherwise the street
is entirely pedestrianised. There are old embassy buildings, Galatasaray
High School, the colourful ambience of Balik Pazari (Fish Bazaar)
and restaurants in Cicek Pasaji (Flower Passage). Also on this street
is the oldest church in the area, St Mary’s Draperis dating back
to 1789, and the Franciscan Church of St Antoine, demolished and then
rebuilt in 1913.
The street ends at Taksim Square,
a huge open plaza, the hub of modern Istanbul and always crowded,
crowned with an imposing monument celebrating Attaturk and the War
of Independence. The main terminal of the new subway is under the
square, adjacent is a noisy bus terminal, and at the north end is
the Ataturk Cultural Centre, one of the venues of the Istanbul Theatre
Festival. Several five-star hotels are dotted around this area,
like the Hyatt, Intercontinental and Hilton (the oldest of its kind
in the city). North of the square is the Istanbul Military Museum.
Taksim and Beyoglu have for centuries
been the centre of nightlife, and now there are many lively bars
and clubs off Istiklal Cadesi, including some of the only gay venues
in the city. Beyoglu is also the centre of the more bohemian arts
scene.
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Sultanahmet
Many places of tourist interest are concentrated in Sultanahmet,
heart of the Imperial Centre of the Ottoman Empire. The most
important places in this area, all of which are described in
detail in the “Places of Interest” section, are Topkapi
Palace, Aya Sofia, Sultan Ahmet Camii (the Blue Mosque), the
Hippodrome, Kapali Carsi (Covered Market), Yerebatan Sarnici
and the Museum of Islamic Art.
In addition to this wonderful
selection of historical and architectural sites, Sultanahmet
also has a large concentration of carpet and souvenir shops,
hotels and guesthouses, cafes, bars and restaurants, and travel
agents. |
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Ortaköy
Ortakoy was a resort for the Ottoman rulers because of its attractive
location on the Bosphorus, and is still a popular spot for residents
and visitors. The village is within a triangle of a mosque, church
and synagogue, and is near Ciragan Palace, Kabatas High School, Feriye,
Princess Hotel.
The name Ortakoy reflects the university
students and teachers who would gather to drink tea and discuss
life, when it was just a small fishing village. These days, however,
that scene has developed into a suburb with an increasing amount
of expensive restaurants, bars, shops and a huge market. The fishing,
however, lives on and the area is popular with local anglers, and
there is now a huge waterfront tea-house which is crammed at weekends
and holidays.
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Sariyer
The first sight of Sariyer is where the Bosphorus connects with
the Black Sea, after the bend in the river after Tarabya. Around this
area, old summer houses, embassies and fish restaurants line the river,
and a narrow road which separates it from Buyukdere, continues along
to the beaches of Kilyos.
Sariyer and Rumeli Kavagi are
the final wharfs along the European side visited by the Bosphorus
boat trips. Both these districts, famous for their fish restaurants
along with Anadolu Kavagi, get very crowded at weekends and holidays
with Istanbul residents escaping the city.
After these points, the Bosphorus
is lined with tree-covered cliffs and little habitation. The Sadberk
Hanim Museum, just before Sariyer, is an interesting place to visit;
a collection of archaeological and ethnographic items, housed in two
wooden houses. A few kilometres away is the huge Belgrade Forest,
once a haunting ground of the Ottomans, and now a popular weekend
retreat into the largest forest area in the city. |
Üsküdar
Relatively unknown to tourists, the suburb of Üsküdar, on
the Asian side of the Bosphorus, is one of the most attractive suburbs.
Religiously conservative in its background, it has a tranquil atmosphere
and some fine examples of imperial and domestic architecture.
The Iskele, or Mihrimah Camii is
opposite the main ferry pier, on a high platform with a huge covered
porch in front, often occupied by older local men watching life
around them. Opposite this is Yeni Valide Camii, built in 1710,
and the Valide Sultan’s green tomb rather like a giant birdcage.
The Cinili Mosque takes its name from the beautiful tiles which
decorate the interior, and was built in 1640.
Apart from places of religious interest,
Uskudar is also well known as a shopping area, with old market streets
selling traditional local produce, and a good fleamarket with second
hand furniture. There are plenty of good restaurants and cafes with
great views of the Bosphorus and the rest of the city, along the
quayside. In the direction of Haydarpasa is the lhe Karaca Ahmet
Cemetery, the largest Muslim graveyard in Istanbul. The front of
the Camlica hills lie at the ridge of area and also offer great
panoramic views of the islands and river.
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Kadiköy
Further south along the Bosphorus towards the Sea of Marmara, Kadiköy
has developed into a lively area with up-market shopping, eating and
entertainment making it popular especially with wealthy locals. Once
prominent in the history of Christianity, the 5th century hosted important
consul meetings here, but there are few reminders of that age. It
is one of the improved districts of Istanbul over the last century,
and fashionable area to promenade along the waterfront in the evenings,
especially around the marinas and yacht clubs.
Bagdat Caddesi is one of the
most trendy – and label-conscious – fashion shopping streets,
and for more down-to-earth goods, the Gen Azim Gunduz Caddesi is the
best place for clothes, and the bit pazari on Ozelellik Sokak is good
for browsing through junk. In the district of Moda, is the Benadam
art gallery, as well as many foreign cuisine restaurants and cafes.
Haydarpasa
To the north of Kadikoy is Haydarpasa, and the train station built
in 1908 with Prussain-style architecture which was the first stop
along the Baghdad railway. Now it is the main station going to eastbound
destinations both within Turkey, and internationally. There are tombs
and monuments dedicated to the English and French soldiers who lost
their lives during the Crimean War (1854-56), near the military hospital.
The north-west wing of the 19th Century Selimiye Barracks once housed
the hospital, used by Florence Nightingale to care for soldiers, and
remains to honour her memory.
Polonezköy
Polonezköy, although still within the city, is 25 km. away from
the centre and not easy to reach by public transport. Translated as
“village of the Poles”, the village has a fascinating history:
It was established in 1848 by Prince Czartorisky, leader of the Polish
nationals who was granted exile in the Ottoman Empire to escape oppression
in the Balkans. During his exile, he succeeded in establishing a community
of Balkans, which still survives, on the plot of land sold to him
by a local monastery.
Since the 1970s the village has
become a popular place with local Istanbulites, who buy their pig
meat there (pig being forbidden under Islamic law and therefore difficult
to get elsewhere). All the Poles have since left the village, and
the place is inhabited now by wealthy city people, living in the few
remaining Central European style wooden houses with pretty balconies.
What attracts most visitors to
Polonezkoy is its vast green expanse, which was designated Istanbul’s
first national park, and the walks though forests with streams and
wooden bridges. Because of its popularity, it gets crowded at weekends
and the hotels are usually full.Kilyos
Kilyos is the nearest beach resort to the city, on the Black Sea coast
on the European side of the Bosphorus. Once a Greek fishing village,
it has quickly been developed as a holiday-home development, and gets
very crowded in summer. Because of its ease to get there, 25km and
plenty of public transport, it is good for a day trip, and is a popular
weekend getaway with plenty of hotels, and a couple of campsites.
Sile
A pleasant, small holiday town, Sile lies 50km from Üsküdar
on the Black Sea coast and some people even live here and commute
into Istanbul. The white sandy beaches are easily accessible from
the main highway, lying on the west, as well as a series of small
beaches at the east end. The town itself if perched on a clifftop
over looking the bay tiny island. There is an interesting French-built
black-and-white striped lighthouse, and 14th century Genoese castle
on the nearby island. Apart from its popular beaches, the town is
also famous for its craft; Sile bezi, a white muslin fabric a little
like cheesecloth, which the local women embroider and sell their products
on the street, as well as all over Turkey.
The town has plenty of accommodation
available, hotels, guest houses and pansiyons, although can get
very crowded at weekends and holidays as it is very popular with
people from Istanbul for a getaway, especially in the summer. There
are small restaurants and bars in the town.
Prince’s Islands
Also known as Istanbul Islands, there are eight within one hour
from the city, in the Marmara Sea. Boats ply the islands from Sirkeci,
Kabatas and Bostanci, with more services during the summer. These
islands, on which monasteries were established during the Byzantine
period, was a popular summer retreat for palace officials. It is
still a popular escape from the city, with wealthier owning summer
houses.
Buyukada
The largest and most popular is Buyukada (the Great Island). Large
wooden mansions still remain from the 19th century when wealthy
Greek and Armernian bankers built them as holiday villas. The island
has always been a place predominantly inhabited by minorities, hence
Islam has never had a strong presence here.
Bu yukada has long had a history
of people coming here in exile or retreat; its most famous guest
being Leon Trotsky, who stayed for four years writing ‘The
History of the Russian Revolution’. The monastery of St George
also played host to the granddaughter of Empress Irene, and the
royal princess Zoe, in 1012.
The island consists of two
hills, both surmounted by monasteries, with a valley between. Motor
vehicles are banned, so getting around the island can be done by
graceful horse and carriage, leaving from the main square off Isa
Celebi Sokak. Bicycles can also be hired.
The southern hill, Yule Tepe,
is the quieter of the two and also home of St George’s Monastery.
It consists of a series of chapels on three levels, the site of
which is a building dating back to the 12th century. In Byzantine
times it was used as an asylum, with iron rings on the church floors
used to restrain patients. On the northern hill is the monastery
Isa Tepe, a 19th century house.
The entire island is lively
and colourful, with many restaurants, hotels, tea houses and shops.
There are huge well-kept houses, trim gardens, and pine groves,
as well as plenty of beach and picnic areas.
Burgazada
Smaller and less of a tourist infrastructure is Burgazada. The famous
Turkish novelist, Sait Faik Abasiyanik lived here, and his house has
been turned into a museum dedicated to his work, and retains a remarkable
tranquil and hallowed atmosphere.
Heybeliada
‘Island of the Saddlebag’, because of its shape, is loved
for its natural beauty and beaches. It also has a highly prestigious
and fashionable watersports club in the northwest of the island. One
of its best-known landmarks is the Greek Orthodox School of Theology,
with an important collection of Byzantine manuscripts. The school
sits loftily on the northern hill, but permission is needed to enter,
from the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate in Fener. The Deniz Harp Okulu,
the Naval High School, is on the east side of the waterfront near
the jetty, which was originally the Naval War Academy set up in 1852,
then a high school since 1985. Walking and cycling are popular here,
plus isolated beaches as well as the public Yoruk Beach, set in a
magnificent bay. There are plenty of good local restaurants and tea
houses, especially along Ayyildiz Caddesi, and the atmosphere is one
of a close community. |
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Kesit
Tourism and Travel Agency
Caglayan Mah. 2007 Sok. No: 7 TR-07230 Antalya /
Turkey
Tel: + 90 - 242 - 323 90 09 - Fax: +90-242 - 323 96
66
E-mail :
info@kesit.com
Licence Nr : 3528
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